I called him the Biryani King of Bombay in 2002 when I interviewed him over lunch. And 2020, which year I have come to hate more than any other in my life, took him away yesterday. Jafferbhai Mansuri is no more. He gave us Delhi Darbar and arguably the best Mutton Biryani in the world. He also gently gave me some compelling Life Lessons during that first meal I had with him. “You must know and love food to be able to serve good food,” Jafferbhai said.
We were at Delhi Darbar in Grant Road. Near the city’s notorious red light area and some sleazy cinema houses. No matter, chauffeured limousines drove up with Arab guests of the Taj and Oberoi for lunch. The fame of his Mutton Biryani was worldwide. Lonely Planet had listed it. Tourists came with the travel guide in hand. Jafferbhai insisted I eat first, then talk. “We will go home. But before that, I must go to the masjid for namaz,” he said.
My plate was heaped with huge spoonfuls of Biryani as we talked.”You can only enjoy eating yourself when you are generous and large-hearted enough towards others,” I heard it from Jafferbhai. His modest reply was that he could cook all the dishes on the Delhi Darbar’s menu. Up to the last Dessert, Caramel Custard. “My mother always told me that if I know how to cook, my gaadi will run, nobody will be able to get ahead of me,” he said.
This is how he talked, in a simple, everyday manner. And he was a simple man, impeccably dressed in white kurta-pajama, polished glasses, a cell phone in hand. He was also a large-hearted restaurateur and a kindly man. Our birthdays were a day apart. Jafferbhai would send me handis of food. Enough to feed the building and neighborhood. He hosted several dinners for me at Delhi Darbar, catered to every party I had at home, and never once charged me even a rupee.
Though I got to know his family and became friends with his sons, who were my age, and his daughters, it was Jafferbhai I was closest to. He took my advice and named his chain of restaurants “Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar” when he split with his brother and started anew. And he used my title, Biryani King of Bombay, and my interview on his menu to tell diners all about Mughlai food and himself. Of all the writing I had done, this was the most gratifying.
Jafferbhai explained Delhi Darbar’s success to me: “If the quality, quantity, and price are correct, the service is perfect, and these four things are in your control, Your customers will be satisfied with your service.” It was he who taught his cooks how to make Mutton Biryani. “I teach them my formula. It’s not a generic recipe. But in my mind, I know it by heart,” he said. I wonder if he has taken it with him. Khuda Hafiz Jafferbhai. Mutton Biryani will never taste the same without you.
About Mark Manuel
The above thoughts/content has been proudly copied from the wall of Sir Mark Manuel. Being interviewing almost every role model of this country and going stronger each day. Mark Manuel is a respected Mumbai editor, writer, and columnist.
With over three decades of journalism in leading publications. This includes the Free Press Journal, Times, Dainik Bhaskar, Mid-Day, and Afternoon. He is famous for his brilliant pen interviews. He himself is a TEDx speaker.
Further
His interviews have featured in several leading media houses. They include the Hindustan Times, Huffington Post, BBC, and Network 18. Almost every famous person has been interviewed by him in the country from Mother Teresa to Muhammad Ali. His first book is just out. It’s titled Moryaa Re! It is a crime thriller that is perhaps the country’s first police procedural. He began his career covering crime. And in a tribute to his experience and knowledge of this beat.
Several distinguished officers of the Mumbai Police and its Crime Branch collaborated with him to make this book possible. Amitabh Bachchan wrote the forward in a statement of friendship for Mark Manuel and admiration for his work.
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